The Fabric Edit: Understanding Silk, Modal, Organic Cotton & Lace

When we talk about lingerie, we tend to talk about how it looks. But the thing that decides whether you'll actually reach for a piece again and again is what it's made of. Fabric determines how something feels against your skin, how it breathes, how it wears over years, and how kind it is to the planet.

Here's a plain-language guide to the four fabrics that do most of the work in a well-made lingerie drawer — what makes each special, and when to choose it.

Why we start with the fibre, not the trend

At SANTCARA, every design begins with a fabric rather than a sketch. A beautiful shape cut from the wrong material will always disappoint; the right fibre, cut simply, can feel extraordinary. Understanding a few basics helps you shop smarter — and understand why prices differ so much.

Mulberry silk — the quiet luxury

Silk is the fibre spun by silkworms, and mulberry silk (from worms fed only mulberry leaves) is the finest, longest and most uniform. It's measured in momme — the higher the number, the denser and more durable the silk. Our Lumière Silk Slip is 19-momme, the sweet spot for lingerie.

• Feels like: cool, fluid, almost weightless — it glides rather than clings.
• Best for: slips, camisoles and anything you want to sleep and be seen in.
• Good to know: silk is naturally temperature-regulating and hypoallergenic, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter. It's an investment fibre — treat it well and it lasts for years.

TENCEL™ modal — the everyday hero

Modal is a soft, breathable fibre made from beech-tree pulp. TENCEL™ modal is produced in a closed-loop system that recovers and reuses the solvents and water, making it one of the more responsible soft fabrics available. It's what gives our Essentials Brief Trio its buttery, second-skin feel.

• Feels like: impossibly soft, smooth and cool — softer than cotton, with more stretch recovery.
• Best for: everyday briefs, soft bralettes and t-shirt-friendly basics.
• Good to know: modal resists shrinking and pilling and holds colour beautifully wash after wash.

Organic cotton — the breathable classic

Cotton is the fibre most of us grew up wearing, and for good reason: it's breathable, gentle and endlessly washable. Organic cotton (grown without synthetic pesticides and, when GOTS-certified, to strict environmental and social standards) is the version we choose. It's the backbone of our Céleste Pyjama Set.

• Feels like: soft, dry and breathable — the definition of comfortable.
• Best for: sleepwear, loungewear, everyday briefs and anyone with sensitive skin.
• Good to know: cotton loves a warm wash and gets softer with age. Look for the GOTS label to be sure "organic" means what it says.

Recycled lace & mesh — the detail that lasts

Lace is what makes lingerie feel like lingerie. Traditionally made from nylon, it can now be woven from recycled polyamide — yarn spun from post-industrial and post-consumer waste — with almost no compromise in delicacy. Our Margot Balconette uses embroidered recycled mesh for lightness and breathability.

• Feels like: light, slightly textured, with a little give.
• Best for: bralettes, balconettes, bodysuits and pretty finishing details.
• Good to know: recycled lace diverts waste and uses less energy and water than virgin nylon — a genuine upgrade, not a downgrade.

How to choose the right fabric

Match the fibre to the moment:

• For everyday invisibility: modal or a smooth microfibre — no lines, all-day comfort.
• For hot sleepers and sensitive skin: organic cotton or silk, both breathable and gentle.
• For something special: silk and recycled lace, worn together or apart.
• For lounging and travel: organic-cotton rib or a soft modal co-ord that folds to nothing.

Fabric FAQ

Which fabric is the most sustainable?

There's no single winner — it depends on how the fibre is grown, processed and cared for. Closed-loop modal, GOTS organic cotton and recycled polyamide all score well. The most sustainable piece is usually the one you'll wear for years.

Is silk high-maintenance?

Less than you'd think. A cool hand-wash or a delicates cycle in a mesh bag, then dry flat away from direct sun, keeps silk beautiful for a very long time.